Medellín Graffiti Tour & San Javier Gondola

Okay! Prepare for a pretty heavy post discussing the history of Comuna 13. It‘s an amazing area filled with friendly people now, but this is something that has only recently evolved over the last ten years.

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After Spanish school the other day, I took a Beat (basically the Colombian equivalent of an Uber) to San Javier station across the city with a few other classmates. It cost about $2.50 to get all of us across the city in a 35 minute ride which is incredibly cheap.

I met up with a free walking tour that I booked online and they organized us into groups to check out the popular neighbourhood called “Comuna 13”. Comuna 13 was once considered the most dangerous places in Colombia and some people even say in all of Latin America and even the world.

It was originally a community filled with immigrants in the late 70’s and early 80’s. It was primarily made up of people escaping from conflict in the more rural areas of Antioquia. The homes were poorly built out of aluminum, wood and whatever other materials they could find. The people would have to drink out of contaminated creeks and had to steal electricity. They had no jobs and therefore were vulnerable to offers from gangs involved in smuggling and trafficking drugs. Guerrilla groups took advantage of the people there as the police seemed to turn a blind eye to the Comuna.

Long story short: the drug and weapon trafficking got incredibly out of control and so in 2002, President Alvaro Uribe launched “Operation Orion”: a raid of the neighbourhood with the force of 3000 troops to try and remove the guerrilla group (FARC) and other gang members.

Three days of violence passed while men in military uniforms went door to door, searching for guerrillas. Even a helicopter flew over the neighbourhood, shooting at homes. People were killed, injured and some disappeared during the operation.

Although the government claims that it was only official security forces used witnesses, experts, and former military leaders say that a paramilitary group called BCN played a huge role in planning and executing the raid.

Unfortunately, although the left-wing rebels were believed to be either dead or out of the area after the raid, the (right wing) paramilitary group (BCN) took over leadership in Comuna 13. It’s my understanding that there were armed criminal actors linked with this group so although one gang was gone, the Comuna remained dangerous for a number of years. People disappeared and military leaders have since then admitted to tossing assorted bodies in a nearby mountainside trash dump during that time.

The people of the neighbourhood took action in their own way rather than falling into the temptation of staying with a gang. This involved creating murals, music and dance. The government began pouring money into Comuna 13 in an effort to revitalize the war zone, including the installlation of escalators to aide with the daily uphill trek.

”Guns & violence we’re slowly replaced by spray cans and street performance.”

Groups in the neighbourhood also have formed over time in hopes they’ll find their disappeared loved ones and to seek justice. The paramilitary groups, though, have threatened these groups and even some members have had to move completely out of the neighbourhood for safety.

While the history of the city and Comuna is extremely dark and violent, the people are incredibly welcoming and are thankful to have tourists pass through. Locals are eager to grow from their past and to work towards a more peaceful city and country. Fun fact: Colombia has had 10 peace processes within the last 30 years which is more than any other country has had.

*Please note that I gathered my information from both the tour, talking to locals and reading about the history of the neighbourhood online.*

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Here are some other photos from the tour that I figured I’d post separately. (It just didnt feel right posting photos of me smiling with the notes mentioned above!) but see the captions below each photo for a little blurb about it

Posing with the mushrooms will apparently bring love into your life! Perhaps a new take on the term “magic mushroom”? Haha!😂

Take a look at the photos above (as well as this one) - the detail is incredible and the colours fill the streets!

Artists were originally just Colombians but it didn’t take long for other graffiti artists from around the world to come share their passion within the streets. This one is the first piece done by someone from another country. The artist was from Mexico!

The view from the top of the Comuna is beautiful - there are many lookout areas to appreciate the city. This one was right near a school where it is free for the locals to learn languages (which is what I understood from our tour guide.)

I made a little friend up there! This kitty locked eyes with me through a crowd and came right over, sat down and looked at me. I loved it, of course, since I love cats but thinking about it now, I suppose that’s a little eery.

We watched two street dance performances and a rap performance. If you ever have a chance to try break dancing: DO IT! It’s sooo challenging and you really gain an appreciation for what the dancers are doing.

I’m posting this photo one more time. Look closely at it (zoom if you can). If you can see the marks in the concrete - those are bullet holes from when the helicopter flew over and shot at the area during Operation Orion.

Some incredibly scary events, hey? The people here are so resilient and courageous to have gone through such tragic events over the years, but as I mentioned before, everyone seems so eager to move forward into a peaceful future.

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I‘m working on my next post where I visit Parque Arvi, a few museums and the gorgeous Guatapé! Stay tuned and stay wild,

T